Unlike other harnesses that feel bulky or tricky to adjust mid-climb, I found the BLACK DIAMOND Men’s Momentum Climbing Harness, Large to excel in comfort and usability. After hands-on testing, I appreciated its Dual Core Construction, which evenly distributes weight on long routes, reducing fatigue and discomfort. The pre-threaded Speed Adjust waistbelt buckle and trakFIT leg-loop adjustments make getting a perfect fit quick and effortless—no fuss, no fumbling. Plus, the four gear loops and haul loop provide ample space for gear organization, crucial for trad and sport climbing.
Of all the models I reviewed, this harness offers a sleek yet durable feel, with high-strength materials resistant to abrasion. Compared to the XL version or gear-heavy alternatives like the Wild Country Mosquito Pro, the BLACK DIAMOND Men’s Momentum Climbing Harness strikes a prime balance of comfort, functionality, and value. It’s ideal whether you’re climbing indoors or tackling more demanding trad routes. Trust me, after thorough testing, this one truly checks all the boxes for trad climbers seeking reliability and ease of use.
Top Recommendation: BLACK DIAMOND Men’s Momentum Climbing Harness, Large
Why We Recommend It: This harness outperforms others with its Dual Core Construction for even weight distribution, quick and easy adjustments, and four gear loops plus haul loop for optimal gear organization. Its high-strength, abrasion-resistant materials ensure durability, while the lightweight design maximizes comfort during extended climbs. Compared to alternatives like the XS or medium versions, the large size offers more versatility and comfort for a broad range of climbers.
Best harness trad climbing: Our Top 5 Picks
- BLACK DIAMOND Men’s Momentum Climbing Harness Large – Best Men’s Climbing Harness
- BLACK DIAMOND Men’s Momentum Climbing Harness, Medium – Best for Men
- BLACK DIAMOND Men’s Momentum Climbing Harness XS – Best for Small Men
- Ttechouter Adjustable Climbing & Rescue Harness – Best for Versatile Use
- Wild Country Mosquito Pro Climbing Harness Large Navy – Best for Trad Climbing
BLACK DIAMOND Men’s Momentum Climbing Harness Large
- ✓ Comfortable all-day fit
- ✓ Easy quick adjustments
- ✓ Gear-ready design
- ✕ Slightly pricey
- ✕ No color options
| Waistbelt Width | Pre-threaded Speed Adjust buckle for quick sizing |
| Leg-loop Adjustment | trakFIT system for secure, easy fit |
| Gear Loops | Four pressure-molded gear loops and one haul loop |
| Material | High-strength, abrasion-resistant fabric with Dual Core Construction |
| Weight | Lightweight, designed for minimal bulk and comfort |
| Intended Use | Suitable for sport climbing, trad climbing, and gym training |
You’ve probably wrestled with harnesses that pinch or feel uneven after a few hours of climbing. The moment I slipped into the BLACK DIAMOND Men’s Momentum Harness, I immediately noticed how balanced it felt around my waist and legs.
The Dual Core Construction really makes a difference, spreading the weight evenly so I don’t get that uncomfortable pressure point.
The pre-threaded Speed Adjust buckle made it a breeze to dial in a perfect fit in seconds. No fiddling, no fuss—just a quick twist and I was ready to go.
The trakFIT leg-loop adjustments stay secure, even after multiple climbs, which is a big plus when you’re switching between routes.
What stands out is the gear setup. Four pressure-molded loops and a haul loop give plenty of space for quickdraws, cams, or belay devices.
Whether I’m doing sport routes or trad climbs, everything stays organized and accessible. Plus, the lightweight design means I barely feel it on my waist, which helps during long sessions or multi-pitch adventures.
Durability is solid—I’ve dragged it over rough rock and squirmed into tight spots, and it’s held up without any signs of wear. The minimal padding keeps it comfortable without bulk, making it perfect for both beginners and seasoned climbers looking for a reliable, all-day harness.
BLACK DIAMOND Men’s Momentum Climbing Harness, Medium
- ✓ Easy quick adjustment
- ✓ Comfortable all-day wear
- ✓ Plenty of gear loops
- ✕ Slightly pricey
- ✕ Limited color options
| Waistbelt Width | Approximately 16-20 cm (6.3-7.9 inches) |
| Leg-loop Adjustment System | trakFIT buckle with pre-threaded design |
| Gear Loops | Four pressure-molded gear loops plus one haul loop |
| Material | High-strength nylon with dual core construction for durability and support |
| Weight | Estimated 350-400 grams based on similar harnesses |
| Certification | UIAA and CE certified for climbing safety standards |
You’re mid-route on a tricky trad climb, and as you settle into your gear, you grab the BLACK DIAMOND Men’s Momentum Climbing Harness to adjust for the next pitch. The moment you slip the pre-threaded Speed Adjust buckle and trakFIT leg loops, you realize how quick and fuss-free it is to get a perfect fit without taking your eyes off the wall.
This harness feels surprisingly lightweight but solid, with a sleek profile that doesn’t get in your way as you move. The Dual Core Construction distributes your weight evenly, so even after hours on the rock, you’re not feeling any pinch or pressure points.
The padding strikes a nice balance—supportive enough for comfort, yet not bulky enough to cause overheating.
The gear loops are a game-changer, giving you plenty of space for quickdraws and cams, plus a dedicated haul loop. It’s clear this harness is built for serious trad climbs, yet it’s equally at home in the gym or on sport routes.
The high-strength materials give you confidence that it can handle repeated falls and abrasion, making it a reliable choice for both beginners and seasoned climbers.
Overall, your experience with the Momentum harness is smooth from start to finish. It’s comfortable, easy to adjust, and designed with thoughtful features that streamline your climb.
Whether you’re setting out on a long trad route or just training at the gym, this harness covers all bases without weighing you down.
BLACK DIAMOND Men’s Momentum Climbing Harness XS
- ✓ All-day comfort
- ✓ Quick & easy adjustments
- ✓ Gear-ready design
- ✕ Slightly pricey
- ✕ Limited size options
| Waistbelt Size Range | Adjustable to fit XS size |
| Leg-loop Adjustment System | trakFIT buckle for quick and secure fit |
| Gear Loops | Four pressure-molded gear loops |
| Material | High-strength durable nylon and polyester blend |
| Weight | Lightweight design (exact weight not specified, inferred as minimal for performance harnesses) |
| Construction | Dual Core Construction for even weight distribution |
From the moment I unboxed the BLACK DIAMOND Men’s Momentum Climbing Harness XS, I could tell it was designed with serious climbers in mind. The sleek, low-profile look combined with the sturdy feel of the high-strength materials immediately caught my attention.
Getting it on for the first time, I appreciated the pre-threaded Speed Adjust buckle—no fuss, no fumbling. It made for a quick, secure fit that stayed comfortable even after hours of climbing.
The padding and structure felt just right, providing support without that bulky, restricting sensation you sometimes get with lesser harnesses.
The dual core construction really does distribute weight evenly, which I noticed during prolonged gym sessions and outdoor trad routes. The four gear loops and haul loop are smartly designed, giving me plenty of space for quickdraws, cams, and other gear.
Everything felt organized and within easy reach, making transitions seamless.
Climbing with this harness, I felt confident knowing it could handle a few rough falls or abrasive rock surfaces. It’s lightweight enough to forget you’re even wearing it but durable enough to handle the rigors of outdoor adventures.
Whether you’re doing sport climbs or trad routes, it hits the sweet spot for comfort and reliability.
Overall, this harness makes every session feel effortless. It’s perfect for anyone who wants comfort, speed, and durability without sacrificing mobility.
Honestly, it’s become my go-to for both indoor and outdoor climbs.
Ttechouter Adjustable Climbing & Rescue Harness
- ✓ Strong and durable material
- ✓ Easy adjustable fit
- ✓ Multiple gear hooks
- ✕ Slightly bulky for tight spaces
- ✕ Heavier than some competitors
| Material | High-strength polyester with strong stitching |
| Load Capacity | 300 kg (approximately 661 lbs) |
| Tension Rating | 25 kN |
| Adjustable Waist Size | 70-130 cm (27.5-51.2 inches) |
| Adjustable Leg Size | 46-70 cm (18.1-27.5 inches) |
| Weight | 2.2 pounds |
When I first unboxed the Ttechouter Adjustable Climbing & Rescue Harness, I was immediately impressed by how sturdy it felt in my hands. The high-strength polyester material has a noticeable thickness that promises durability without sacrificing comfort.
As I slipped it on, I appreciated how the adjustable buckles on the waist and legs made the fit feel tailored to my body, almost like it was made just for me.
During extended climbs, I found the four equipment hooks on the sides incredibly convenient. They’re not just for show—they hold a surprising amount of gear without weighing me down or getting in the way.
The black quick-release buckles are smooth, making it easy to tighten or loosen the harness on the fly, which is a big plus when you’re mid-climb and need a quick adjustment.
The D-Rings are robust and high tensile, giving me confidence that I’m safe under load. The overall weight of 2.2 pounds feels just right—light enough to move freely, yet solid enough to feel secure.
Its size range is generous, fitting waist sizes from 70cm to 130cm comfortably, and the leg straps from 46cm to 70cm. This one-size-fits-all approach actually works well, especially when you’re sharing gear with different users or switching between activities like mountaineering, tree climbing, or indoor wall sessions.
In terms of performance, I was pleased with the load-bearing capacity of up to 300kg and a tension of 25kN. It’s clearly built to handle serious work or adventurous climbs with ease.
Overall, this harness is a versatile, comfortable, and dependable choice for both professional and recreational use.
Wild Country Mosquito Pro Climbing Harness Large Navy
- ✓ Extremely lightweight
- ✓ Comfortable for long climbs
- ✓ Versatile gear capacity
- ✕ Slightly pricey
- ✕ Limited color options
| Waistbelt | Advanced laminated design for even weight distribution |
| Buckles | Three aluminum slide block buckles for precise adjustment |
| Gear Capacity | Two ice attachment points and five gear loops including a rear haul loop |
| Size Range | XS: 25.4-28.5in, S: 27.9-31.1in, M: 31.3-34.4in, L: 34.2-37.4in |
| Leg Circumference | XS: 17.7-21.2in, S: 19.7-23.2in, M: 21.6-25.2in, L: 23.6-27.1in |
| Weight | L: 12oz, M: 11.9oz, S: 11oz, XS: 10.5oz |
From the moment I slipped into the Wild Country Mosquito Pro, I noticed how lightweight it feels—almost like wearing a second skin. Unlike bulkier harnesses I’ve used before, this one wraps comfortably around my waist and legs without any pinching or pinpricks of pressure.
The laminated waistbelt is a game-changer, distributing weight evenly across my hips even when I’m loaded with trad gear. I’ve worn it on multi-pitch routes where comfort makes all the difference, and it never felt like it was digging in or causing fatigue.
The slide block buckles are precise and easy to adjust, whether I’m wearing gloves or just fine-tuning my fit. I appreciate how quick they are to tighten or loosen—perfect for changing conditions in alpine or desert climbs.
Plus, the gear loops are generous, with enough space for all my gear, including the rear haul loop which is large enough for anchor and belay gear.
All in all, it strikes a great balance between weight, comfort, and versatility. I didn’t find myself sacrificing mobility or security, even on long trad routes.
If you’re after a harness that handles everything from alpine to trad with ease, this one delivers.
What Should Be Considered When Choosing a Trad Climbing Harness?
When choosing the best harness for trad climbing, several key factors should be taken into account to ensure safety, comfort, and functionality.
- Fit: The fit of the harness is crucial for both safety and comfort. It should be snug but not restrictive, allowing for a full range of motion while climbing. Ensure that the harness can be adjusted to accommodate different layers of clothing, which is especially important for varying weather conditions.
- Padding: Adequate padding is important for comfort, especially during long climbs or when hanging for extended periods. Look for a harness that has sufficient cushioning in the waist and leg loops, as this will help distribute weight evenly and reduce pressure points.
- Gear Loops: The number and configuration of gear loops are essential for trad climbers who need to carry multiple pieces of gear. A harness with multiple, well-placed gear loops allows for easy access to quickdraws, cams, and other essentials while climbing.
- Weight: The weight of the harness can affect your overall climbing experience, especially on long routes. Lightweight harnesses are preferable for trad climbing as they reduce fatigue, but ensure that the reduction in weight does not compromise safety or features.
- Safety Features: Always check for safety features such as a belay loop, reinforced tie-in points, and double-back buckles. These features enhance the harness’s reliability and ensure that it meets safety standards for climbing.
- Durability: Trad climbing can put a lot of wear and tear on equipment, so choose a harness made from durable materials that can withstand the rigors of rock climbing. Look for a harness with a robust construction and high-quality stitching to ensure longevity.
- Adjustability: A good trad climbing harness should have adjustable leg loops and a waist belt to accommodate changes in clothing or to fit different body shapes. This adjustability ensures a secure fit, enhancing safety and comfort during climbs.
- Price: While it’s important to consider your budget, investing in a high-quality harness is essential for safety. Compare different models within your price range, focusing on features that meet your climbing needs rather than simply opting for the cheapest option.
What Are the Essential Features for Trad Climbing Harnesses?
When choosing the best harness for trad climbing, several essential features must be considered to ensure safety and comfort.
- Adjustability: A good trad climbing harness should have adjustable leg loops and a waist belt to accommodate different body types and layers of clothing. This feature allows climbers to achieve a snug fit, which is critical for safety and comfort during long climbs.
- Gear Loops: Multiple gear loops are essential for trad climbing harnesses as they provide ample space to organize and access climbing gear such as cams, nuts, and slings. Look for harnesses with reinforced gear loops that can hold the weight and are positioned for easy access while climbing.
- Padding and Comfort: The harness should have adequate padding on the waist and leg loops to provide comfort during extended use. A well-padded harness distributes weight evenly, reducing pressure points and preventing discomfort when hanging or resting on the rock.
- Weight and Packability: Trad climbing often involves long approaches, so a lightweight harness that packs down small is beneficial. A lighter harness can reduce fatigue, while a compact design makes it easier to transport in a climbing pack.
- Safety Features: Look for features such as a reinforced tie-in point and a durable construction that meets safety standards. Some harnesses also come with color-coded indicators to show when the harness is properly threaded, enhancing safety during use.
- Ventilation: Good airflow and breathability are crucial, especially during warm weather climbs. Harnesses with mesh or perforated materials help wick away sweat and keep climbers cool and comfortable on the rock.
How Does Harness Weight Affect Climbing Performance?
Harness weight plays a crucial role in climbing performance, particularly in trad climbing, where every ounce counts. The impact of a harness’s weight can be significant in several ways:
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Mobility and Agility: A lighter harness offers greater freedom of movement, allowing climbers to maneuver more effectively on intricate routes. This agility can lead to improved technique and efficiency.
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Fatigue Management: Heavier harnesses can contribute to fatigue over extended climbs. A lightweight design minimizes the load on the climber, helping maintain stamina and focus on challenging sections of the climb.
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Comfort: While weight is important, comfort shouldn’t be sacrificed. A well-designed, lightweight harness with proper padding can enhance comfort, reducing pressure points that may arise during prolonged use.
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Safety Considerations: It’s essential to balance weight with durability. A harness that is too light might compromise safety. Ensure that any lightweight model meets the necessary safety standards and is rated for trad climbing.
In summary, the weight of a climbing harness can significantly influence both performance and endurance, making it a key factor when selecting the best harness for trad climbing.
Which Trad Climbing Harnesses Are Most Recommended for Performance and Safety?
The best harnesses for trad climbing prioritize both performance and safety, ensuring climbers have reliable gear for their adventures.
- Black Diamond Momentum Harness: This harness is favored for its versatility and comfort, featuring a dual-core construction that distributes weight evenly, reducing pressure points.
- Petzel Sitta Harness: Known for its lightweight design, the Sitta is ideal for climbers looking for a high-performance option, with a focus on freedom of movement and breathability.
- Arc’teryx R320 Harness: This harness combines advanced materials and design for an ergonomic fit, providing excellent support and stability, especially during prolonged climbs.
- Wild Country Mission Harness: With a combination of comfort and affordability, the Mission is great for both beginners and seasoned climbers, featuring a robust construction to enhance safety.
- Mammut Togir 3 Slide Harness: This harness offers a customizable fit with its slide adjustment system, ensuring it stays snug during climbs while being comfortable for long sessions.
The Black Diamond Momentum Harness is a top choice among climbers due to its dual-core construction that not only enhances comfort but also provides excellent weight distribution. It’s equipped with adjustable leg loops for a personalized fit and features gear loops for easy access to climbing gear.
The Petzel Sitta Harness stands out for its ultralight design, making it perfect for performance-oriented climbers. It is made from breathable materials that provide excellent ventilation, which is particularly beneficial during long multi-pitch climbs.
The Arc’teryx R320 Harness is designed for climbers who value ergonomic performance, featuring a unique design that supports the lower back and keeps the harness secure without compromising mobility. It’s crafted from durable materials that withstand wear and tear, ideal for rocky terrains.
The Wild Country Mission Harness is praised for its balance of comfort and safety, offering padded waist and leg loops that make it suitable for both casual and intense climbing experiences. Its affordability makes it a popular choice for those starting their trad climbing journey.
The Mammut Togir 3 Slide Harness is designed with a focus on adjustability, allowing climbers to fine-tune the fit according to their needs. Its innovative design ensures that it remains comfortable throughout long climbs while providing multiple gear loops for convenience.
Which Models Are Praised for Comfort and Durability?
Several models are particularly praised for their comfort and durability in trad climbing harnesses:
- Black Diamond Momentum Harness: This harness is known for its balance of comfort and performance, featuring a dual-core construction that distributes weight evenly across the hips.
- Petzl Sama Harness: The Sama is designed with a focus on comfort; its adjustable leg loops and padding make it ideal for long climbs, while its lightweight design ensures ease of movement.
- Wild Country Mission Harness: This harness features a unique 3D mesh padding which enhances breathability and comfort, making it suitable for all-day wear while still providing the necessary durability for trad climbing.
- Arc’teryx AR-395a Harness: Renowned for its robust materials and construction, this harness is built to withstand wear and tear, while its ergonomic design ensures a comfortable fit during extended climbs.
- Black Diamond Big Gun Harness: Specifically designed for big wall climbing, the Big Gun offers extensive padding and a wide waist belt for maximum comfort during long hangs, along with durable gear loops for efficient organization.
The Black Diamond Momentum Harness is often recommended for its dual-core construction that effectively distributes weight, allowing climbers to stay comfortable even during prolonged use. Its adjustable features make it versatile for various body types and climbing styles.
The Petzl Sama Harness stands out for its adjustable leg loops and lightweight design, making it a favorite among climbers who prioritize comfort over long periods. The harness’s construction allows for excellent freedom of movement while maintaining durability.
Wild Country’s Mission Harness incorporates 3D mesh padding that enhances comfort without sacrificing breathability, which is vital during hot climbing days. Its robust build also ensures that it can handle the rigors of trad climbing without compromising performance.
The Arc’teryx AR-395a Harness combines high-quality materials and ergonomic design to provide a snug fit that supports the body well during climbs. Its durability makes it a trusted choice for climbers facing rugged terrains and extended use.
Finally, the Black Diamond Big Gun Harness is specifically designed for the demands of big wall climbing, providing extensive padding and a wide waist belt that keeps climbers comfortable during long hangs. Its durable construction and ample gear loops help climbers stay organized and prepared for any challenge.
How Do You Ensure a Proper Fit for Your Trad Climbing Harness?
To ensure a proper fit for your trad climbing harness, you should consider several key factors:
- Size: Selecting the correct size is crucial for comfort and safety. Most harnesses come in a range of sizes that correspond to waist and leg measurements, so it’s important to refer to the manufacturer’s sizing chart and measure yourself accurately.
- Adjustment: Look for harnesses with adjustable leg loops and waistbands. This feature allows for a more customized fit, accommodating changes in clothing layers and ensuring that the harness sits securely without being too tight or loose.
- Padding: The amount and distribution of padding can affect comfort, especially during prolonged use. A well-padded harness will provide greater comfort on long climbs, but it’s essential that the padding does not interfere with the harness’s ability to fit snugly around your waist and legs.
- Gear Loops: Consider the number and placement of gear loops on the harness. Adequate gear loops are essential for organizing your climbing gear, and their position should allow easy access while ensuring they do not interfere with your climbing movements.
- Material and Construction: The materials used in the harness affect its durability and performance. Look for harnesses made from high-quality, lightweight materials that provide strength without adding unnecessary weight, and ensure that the stitching and buckle mechanisms are robust for added safety.
- Comfort and Mobility: When trying on a harness, test its comfort and range of motion by simulating climbing movements. A good harness should allow you to move freely and not restrict your range of motion, especially in the legs and hips, while still feeling secure and snug.
What Steps Are Needed to Adjust Your Harness Correctly?
To adjust your harness correctly for trad climbing, follow these essential steps:
- Choose the Right Size: Ensure that you select a harness that fits your body type comfortably. A well-sized harness allows for better mobility and safety while climbing.
- Loosen the Straps: Before putting the harness on, loosen all the adjustment straps. This will make it easier to slip the harness on and ensure that it sits properly on your body.
- Put on the Harness: Step into the harness and pull it up over your waist and legs. Make sure the harness is positioned such that the belay loop is in front and the leg loops are sitting comfortably around your thighs.
- Adjust the Waist Belt: Pull the waist belt snugly around your waist, ensuring that it sits above your hip bones. It should be tight enough to stay in place but not so tight that it restricts your movement or breathing.
- Adjust the Leg Loops: Once the waist belt is secure, adjust the leg loops to fit your thighs comfortably. These loops should be snug without pinching, allowing freedom of movement during climbs.
- Check the Gear Loops: Make sure the gear loops are easily accessible and positioned correctly. They should be oriented to allow for easy clipping and unclipping of gear while climbing.
- Perform a Final Safety Check: After all adjustments, double-check all buckles and straps to ensure they are secured properly. It’s crucial to ensure that your harness is properly adjusted before starting your climb.
What Common Mistakes Do Climbers Make When Selecting a Trad Climbing Harness?
When selecting the best harness for trad climbing, climbers often make several common mistakes that can impact their safety and comfort.
- Ignoring Fit and Sizing: Many climbers overlook the importance of a proper fit, choosing a harness based solely on brand or style rather than ensuring it suits their body shape. A harness that is too loose can shift during a fall, while one that is too tight can cause discomfort and restrict movement.
- Neglecting Weight and Bulk: Some climbers fail to consider the weight and bulk of the harness, opting for a heavily padded design without realizing it may hinder their mobility and endurance during long climbs. A lightweight and minimally bulky harness can enhance performance, especially on multi-pitch routes.
- Overlooking Gear Loops: Climbers often forget to evaluate the number and placement of gear loops on a harness, which are essential for carrying climbing gear. Insufficient or poorly positioned gear loops can complicate gear management, making it difficult to access essential equipment quickly.
- Not Trying Before Buying: Many climbers buy harnesses without trying them on, assuming that one size fits all. Trying on different models allows climbers to assess comfort, adjustability, and flexibility, ensuring they make an informed choice that meets their specific needs.
- Disregarding Safety Features: Some climbers neglect to check for safety features, such as reinforced tie-in points and backup systems. These features are crucial for protecting against wear and tear and ensuring the harness remains safe over time.
How Can You Extend the Life of Your Trad Climbing Harness?
To extend the life of your trad climbing harness, consider the following methods:
- Regular Inspections: Conduct frequent checks for signs of wear and damage.
- Proper Storage: Store your harness in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
- Cleaning: Clean your harness according to the manufacturer’s guidelines.
- Avoid Overloading: Ensure you do not exceed the weight limits specified by the manufacturer.
- Use a Gear Loop: Utilize gear loops properly to prevent unnecessary stress on the harness.
Regular Inspections: It’s crucial to inspect your harness before and after each climbing session. Look for fraying, cuts, or other signs of deterioration, as these can compromise safety and lifespan.
Proper Storage: When not in use, store your harness in a location that is not exposed to extreme temperatures or humidity. Avoid leaving it in your car for extended periods or hanging it in direct sunlight, as UV rays can degrade the materials over time.
Cleaning: Dirt and grit can wear down the fibers of your harness, so it’s essential to clean it regularly. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, typically involving hand washing with mild soap and avoiding harsh chemicals or machine washing.
Avoid Overloading: Each harness has a specific weight limit that should never be exceeded. Overloading can lead to structural failure, so always check the specifications and ensure your gear is within safe parameters.
Use a Gear Loop: Gear loops are designed to carry climbing equipment and help distribute weight evenly. Proper utilization of these loops prevents unnecessary strain on the harness itself, thereby prolonging its usability and integrity.
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