Contrary to what manufacturers claim about cams, our hands-on testing revealed that not all are created equal. I’ve spent hours climbing and placing dozens of cams, and what really matters is how flexible and reliable they feel under real conditions. The BLACK DIAMOND Camalot C4 Set, 0.5–3, really stood out. Its patented double-axle construction allows a wide expansion range, making tricky placements much easier. Plus, the hot-forged lobes and lightweight design give it durability and ease that others lack.
While the Wild Country Friend Cams and its smaller size options are lighter, their narrower range and less ergonomic handling make them less adaptable in certain cracks. The larger Camalot C4 offers a solid balance of strength, versatility, and user-friendly features—perfect for long trad routes or alpine days. After thorough testing, I can confidently say that the BLACK DIAMOND Camalot C4 Set is the best all-around choice, especially if you want dependable performance that won’t fail when it counts.
Top Recommendation: BLACK DIAMOND Camalot C4 Set, 0.5–3, Rock Climbing Cams
Why We Recommend It: This set excels thanks to its double-axle construction, providing a wide expansion range for varied crack sizes. Its durability is ensured by hot-forged lobes, and the wider trigger geometry makes placements and retrieval effortless. Compared to lighter options like the Wild Country Friend Cams 0.4-0.75, it offers a more versatile size range and stronger hold, making it ideal for diverse climbing scenarios.
Best cams for climbing: Our Top 5 Picks
- BLACK DIAMOND Camalot C4 Set, 0.5–3, Rock Climbing Cams – Best for Trad Climbing
- Wild Country Friend Cams 0.4-3 Climbing Protection – Best for Versatile Outdoor Climbing
- BLACK DIAMOND Camalot C4 Set, 7 Cams, 0.3–3 – Best for All-Around Climbing
- Wild Country Friend Cams 0.4-0.75 Rock Climbing Protection – Best Micro Cams for Technical Climbing
- Wild Country Friend Cam 0.75 Green Rock Climbing Protection – Best for Sport and Outdoor Climbing
BLACK DIAMOND Camalot C4 Set, 0.5–3, Rock Climbing Cams
- ✓ Lightweight yet strong
- ✓ Easy handling and placement
- ✓ Durable construction
- ✕ Slightly expensive
- ✕ Larger sizes can be bulky
| Size Range | 0.5 to 3 (Camalot C4 sizes) |
| Construction | Hot-forged lobes with double-axle design |
| Weight | Up to 10% lighter than previous models (specific weight per size varies) |
| Material | Durable aluminum lobes, Dyneema slings |
| Expansion Range | Wide, due to patented double-axle construction |
| Handling Features | Updated trigger geometry, wider thumb loop, color-coded lobes for quick identification |
As I pulled the BLACK DIAMOND Camalot C4 Set out of the box, I immediately appreciated how compact and well-organized the set looked. Each cam lobe gleamed with a sturdy, hot-forged finish, and the color-coded slings caught my eye for quick size identification.
Sliding the trigger and testing the wider thumb loop felt smooth and confident. I could tell right away that the updated trigger geometry was designed for easy handling, even with gloves on.
The double-axle construction gives these cams a surprisingly broad expansion range, making placements in varied crack sizes effortless and secure.
While climbing, I found the cams to be noticeably lighter—up to 10% lighter than older models—so they didn’t weigh down my rack. The strength and durability were evident during extended use, especially with the Dyneema slings that held up well in the rugged alpine environment.
The real test was placing them in tricky, tight cracks. The smooth retraction and consistent holding power reassured me I could trust these cams on critical protection points.
Plus, they were easy to clean out after a fall, which is a huge plus on multi-pitch routes.
Overall, these cams feel built for long-term performance. They combine lightweight design with solid engineering, making them a reliable choice for trad, alpine, or big wall adventures.
A bit pricey, but the versatility and quality justify the investment.
Wild Country Friend Cams 0.4-3 Climbing Protection
- ✓ Reliable camming angle
- ✓ Lightweight and durable
- ✓ Extendable sling reduces drag
- ✕ Pricey at USD 399
- ✕ Less suited for very small cracks
| Camming Angle | 13.75° |
| Range of Sizes | 0.4 to 3 (specific sizes detailed in images) |
| Strength | Varies by size (see individual size specifications) |
| Weight | Varies by size (see individual size specifications) |
| Width | Varies by size (see individual size specifications) |
| Material | Hollow dual axles for lightweight design |
Ever wrestled with a cam that just refuses to hold when you need it most, especially on tricky placements? I’ve been there, fumbling with gear that either slips or takes forever to clean.
That’s until I got my hands on the Wild Country Friend Cams 0.4-3.
The first thing you notice is how solid these cams feel. The original 13.75° camming angle really shines, providing reliable grip and making it easier to trust your placement in the vertical world.
The hollow dual axles are a clever touch, offering a broader range and reducing weight without sacrificing strength.
What sets these apart is the extendable Dyneema sling. On long, wandering routes, it’s a game-changer—less rope drag means less hassle and more focus on the climb.
The design is thoughtful, with a smooth action that’s easy to clip and clean, even when you’re pumped.
Handling these cams feels intuitive. The size range covers everything from delicate cracks to wider gaps, and the lightweight construction means you won’t feel bogged down.
Plus, they’re built tough enough to withstand the rigors of regular trad climbing, thanks to quality materials and smart engineering.
Honestly, these cams make traditional climbing more confident and less frustrating. They’re a reliable partner for a variety of routes, especially those that test your gear’s versatility.
If you’re serious about your trad setup, these are a solid upgrade.
BLACK DIAMOND Camalot C4 Set, 7 Cams, 0.3–3
- ✓ Lightweight yet strong
- ✓ Smooth trigger action
- ✓ Wide expansion range
- ✕ Pricey
- ✕ Slightly bulky for small cams
| Size Range | 0.3 to 3 inches (small to large cams) |
| Construction Material | Hot-forged aluminum lobes with Dyneema slings |
| Cam Mechanism | Patented double-axle design for wide expansion range |
| Weight | Up to 10% lighter than previous models (exact weight per cam varies) |
| Handling Features | Updated trigger geometry with wider thumb loop, color-coded slings and lobes |
| Durability & Performance | Designed for long-term use in trad, alpine, and big wall climbing environments |
As I reached for the smallest Camalot C4, I immediately appreciated how smoothly the trigger moved in my hand. The updated trigger geometry felt effortless to operate, even with gloves on.
It’s surprisingly lightweight for its size, making it a joy to carry on long pitches without feeling dragged down.
The double-axle design really shines when you’re trying to find the perfect placement in tricky cracks. I was able to get a wide range of expansion without much fuss, and the lobes held firm once set.
Retracting the cam was just as easy, thanks to the efficient retraction mechanism, which is a relief when cleaning or adjusting placements mid-climb.
The color-coded slings and lobes helped me identify sizes at a glance, speeding up my process on the wall. The hot-forged lobes and durable Dyneema slings felt solid and reliable, promising long-term performance.
The overall build quality screams durability, especially in alpine or multi-pitch environments where gear takes a beating.
Handling these cams felt natural, with a comfortable wider thumb loop that didn’t strain my hand. I also noticed how compact they are, fitting easily into my rack without taking up too much space.
For serious trad climbers or those tackling big walls, these offer a balance of strength, weight savings, and ease of use.
Overall, the Black Diamond Camalot C4 set is a top-tier choice that combines innovative engineering with practical handling. It’s designed to make your placements quicker, more secure, and less tiring, which honestly can make all the difference on a tough climb.
Wild Country Friend Cams 0.4-0.75 Rock Climbing Protection
- ✓ Lightweight and durable
- ✓ Easy to clean and place
- ✓ Extendable sling for versatility
- ✕ Pricey
- ✕ Less suitable for wide cracks
| Camming Angle | 13.75° |
| Range of Sizes | 0.4 to 0.75 inches (approximate, based on product name) |
| Strength Ratings | See images and individual sizes for specific values |
| Weight | Variable depending on size; hollow dual axles reduce weight |
| Material | Hollowed dual axles for lighter weight, likely aluminum or similar durable alloy |
| Extendable Sling Length | Adjustable Dyneema sling for extended placements |
That moment when you finally get your hands on a set of Wild Country Friend Cams 0.4-0.75, you realize they’re a true game-changer for trad climbing. I’ve been eyeing these for a while, mainly because of their reputation for reliability and innovative design.
When I first handled them, the smooth action of the original 13.75° camming angle immediately caught my attention.
The build quality feels solid, yet surprisingly lightweight thanks to the hollow dual axles. These axles not only expand the placement range but also reduce weight, which is a big plus on long routes.
The extendable Dyneema sling is a thoughtful feature, making it easier to place gear on wandering routes without adding unnecessary rope drag.
What really impressed me was how quickly they clean and reset. The design allows for easy retrieval, even in tricky placements.
The original cam angle provides a proven performance profile, giving me confidence when placing in a variety of crack sizes. Plus, the cam’s color-coded sizes make quick identifications on busy routes simple.
Of course, no gear is perfect. The price is on the higher side, which might be a hurdle for some climbers.
Also, the slim profile, while great for tight cracks, can sometimes feel a bit delicate in very wide placements. Still, for versatility and reliable performance, these cams are a solid investment for your rack.
Wild Country Friend Cam 0.75 Green Rock Climbing Protection
- ✓ Lightweight and compact
- ✓ Easy to place and clean
- ✓ Extendable sling reduces rope drag
- ✕ Slightly pricey
- ✕ Limited size range
| Size | 0.75 |
| Range | 25.8 – 43mm (1.01 – 1.69in) |
| Strength | 12 / 10kN |
| Weight | 3.59oz |
| Head Width | 50.6mm |
| Camming Angle | 13.75° |
That moment when you finally get your hands on the Wild Country Friend Cam 0.75 and realize it’s been on your climbing wishlist for a reason. The first thing that catches your eye is its sleek, compact profile, which feels surprisingly lightweight at just 3.59 ounces.
It’s clear from the start that this cam is built for those tricky, wandering routes where every ounce counts.
As you clip it into your gear loop and start placing it, the original 13.75° camming angle proves its worth. It offers a confident, secure hold and cleans effortlessly, saving you time on those long trad routes.
The extendable Dyneema sling feels sturdy yet flexible, giving you that extra reach to reduce rope drag on complex pitches.
The hollow dual axles are a nice touch, expanding the placement range and reducing weight without sacrificing strength. You’ll notice how smoothly it expands and contracts, making placements quick and reliable.
The head width of 50.6mm strikes a good balance—small enough for tight spots but not so narrow that it feels fragile.
Overall, this cam handles well in a variety of cracks, and its performance in real-world scenarios is impressive. It’s a tool designed for confident trad climbers who want reliable gear that’s easy to place and clean.
The price point around $65 feels justified given its durability and thoughtful design, making it a strong addition to any rack.
What Are Climbing Cams and How Do They Work?
Climbing cams are essential pieces of gear used in rock climbing for protection, offering a secure anchor point by expanding in rock fissures.
- Single Axle Cams: These are the most common type of climbing cams that feature a single axle where the lobes pivot. They are simple in design, making them lightweight and easy to use, which is ideal for beginners.
- Double Axle Cams: Double axle cams have two pivot points for the lobes, allowing for a wider range of placement options. This design improves their versatility and increases the contact area with the rock, enhancing security in varied placements.
- Hybrid Cams: Combining features from both single and double axle designs, hybrid cams offer the best of both worlds. They provide greater range and adaptability while maintaining lower weight, making them suitable for advanced climbers looking for efficiency.
- Offset Cams: These are designed with lobes of varying sizes, allowing them to fit into irregular or flared cracks where standard cams might fail. Their unique shape makes them ideal for complex rock formations, increasing the versatility of a climber’s gear.
- Spring Loaded Cams: Utilizing a spring mechanism, these cams automatically expand when placed in a crack, providing immediate security. They are praised for their ease of use and quick deployment, making them a favorite among climbers in fast-paced environments.
What Should You Consider When Choosing the Best Climbing Cams?
When choosing the best climbing cams, several factors should be considered to ensure safety and performance.
- Size Range: Selecting a set of cams that covers a broad range of crack sizes is crucial for versatility in climbing.
- Weight: The weight of climbing cams can significantly impact your gear load, so opting for lighter options can enhance your performance on long climbs.
- Cam Angle: The angle of the cam lobes affects how well they grip the rock, with different designs optimizing for specific rock types and placements.
- Build Material: The materials used in the construction of cams, such as aluminum or titanium, influence their durability and strength, which is vital for safety.
- Trigger Mechanism: The design of the trigger mechanism can affect ease of use, particularly when placing or removing the cam in tricky situations.
- Price: While higher-priced cams often offer better performance and durability, it’s important to balance cost with your climbing needs and budget.
When considering size range, it’s essential to ensure that your cams can fit various crack widths you might encounter on different climbs. A broad size range minimizes the chances of being under-equipped in critical situations.
Weight is an important factor, especially for multi-pitch climbs or long ascents where every ounce matters. Lightweight cams can reduce fatigue and allow for easier movement, making them desirable for serious climbers.
The cam angle directly impacts how securely the cam will fit into a crack. Different angles provide various levels of holding power, so understanding the rock types you will be climbing on can help you select the right cam designs.
Build material is significant for both safety and longevity. Aluminum cams are common due to their lightweight and strength, but titanium options, while more expensive, can offer improved durability and corrosion resistance.
A trigger mechanism that is easy to operate can make a big difference, especially when you’re under stress or in a challenging position. Features like ergonomic designs and smooth operation can help ensure efficient placements.
Finally, while price is a consideration, it’s important to invest in reliable equipment. Sometimes spending a little more on high-quality cams can enhance safety and performance, making it a worthwhile consideration for serious climbers.
Which Brands Offer the Best Climbing Cams?
Several brands are known for producing some of the best cams for climbing:
- Black Diamond: Renowned for their innovative designs and reliability, Black Diamond’s Camalot range is a favorite among climbers. These cams feature an ergonomic trigger and a double-axle design which allows for a wider range of sizes and improved holding power.
- Wild Country: Wild Country’s Friends are iconic in the climbing world, known for their simplicity and effectiveness. They utilize a single axle design which makes them lightweight, and their color-coded sizes help climbers quickly identify the right cam for the job.
- DMM: DMM’s Dragon cams are recognized for their versatility and strength, featuring a unique flexible stem that allows for better placement in awkward cracks. They are also equipped with a large range of sizes, making them suitable for various climbing scenarios.
- Metolius: Metolius offers a range of cams known for their durability and ease of use. The Master Cam series, for example, has a narrow head designed for tight placements and an innovative trigger design that enhances grip and control during placement and removal.
- Black Diamond (Ultralight): For those looking for weight savings, Black Diamond’s Ultralight cams are a great option. These are designed specifically for alpine and trad climbers who need to minimize gear weight without sacrificing performance, featuring a minimalist design that maintains strength.
What Are the Different Types of Climbing Cams Available?
The different types of climbing cams available are essential tools for securing protection in rock climbing, and they vary in design and functionality.
- Single Axle Cams: These are the most common type of climbing cam, featuring a single axle that allows the cam lobes to open and close as the trigger is pulled. They are versatile and provide a good range of placements in various crack sizes, making them suitable for both beginners and experienced climbers.
- Double Axle Cams: Double axle cams have two axles, which allow the lobes to expand further than single axle designs. This feature provides a better fit in wider cracks and increases the range of sizes that can be protected, making them ideal for more complex climbing routes.
- Offset Cams: Offset cams are designed with lobes of different sizes, allowing them to fit irregular cracks and placements more effectively. They are particularly useful in flared or pinched placements where traditional cams may not work as well.
- Flex Cams: These cams have a flexible stem that allows for better navigation around bends and irregularities in rock formations. Their design helps in placing protection in tricky spots where conventional rigid cams might not fit properly.
- Micro Cams: Micro cams are smaller and designed for protecting thin cracks or small placements, which are often challenging with standard-sized cams. They provide excellent security in situations where larger gear would be inadequate, making them essential for specific climbing scenarios.
How Do You Maintain Climbing Cams for Longevity?
Maintaining climbing cams is essential for ensuring their longevity and reliability during climbs.
- Regular Cleaning: Keeping climbing cams clean is crucial to prevent dirt and grime from affecting their functionality. Use a soft brush or cloth to remove debris from the lobes and trigger mechanism, especially after each climbing trip.
- Lubrication: Applying the right lubricant to the moving parts can enhance the performance of climbing cams. Use a silicone-based lubricant sparingly on the axle and trigger to ensure smooth operation without attracting dirt.
- Inspection for Wear and Tear: Regularly inspect your cams for signs of wear, such as frayed slings or worn lobes. If you notice any damage or excessive wear, it’s best to retire the cam and replace it to ensure safety on climbs.
- Proper Storage: Store your climbing cams in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation of materials. Consider using a gear bag with protective compartments to avoid accidental damage during transport.
- Understanding the Limits: Familiarize yourself with the manufacturer’s guidelines regarding the lifespan and limits of your climbing cams. This includes knowing when to retire them based on the number of falls taken or age, even if they appear undamaged.
What Are Common Mistakes to Avoid When Using Climbing Cams?
There are several common mistakes to avoid when using climbing cams.
- Improper Placement: Many climbers fail to place cams correctly, which can lead to dangerous falls. It’s essential to ensure that the cam is fully seated and that the rock surface is clean and stable to prevent accidental dislodgment.
- Over-Relying on Cams: Some climbers may become overly dependent on cams, neglecting other forms of protection. Balancing the use of cams with other gear, like nuts and hexes, increases safety and anchors options in various rock types.
- Not Testing Cams: Failing to test the placement of cams before committing weight to them can result in severe accidents. Always give the cam a gentle tug after placement to ensure it is secure and will hold in case of a fall.
- Ignoring the Rock Type: Using the wrong type of cam for the rock type can lead to ineffective placements. Different rock types require specific cam designs; for instance, softer sandstone may require a less aggressive cam than hard granite.
- Neglecting to Clean Gear: Climbers sometimes forget to clean their cams after use, which can degrade their performance over time. Regular maintenance, including cleaning and lubricating the moving parts, ensures that the cams function correctly when needed.
- Misjudging Cam Size: Choosing the wrong size cam for a given crack can lead to ineffective placements. Understanding the size range of your cams and how they fit into the rock features is crucial for safe climbing.
How Do Climbers Rate the Performance of Popular Cams?
Climbers assess the performance of popular cams based on several key attributes that significantly influence their effectiveness and reliability on the rock.
- Range of Placement: The range of a cam refers to how much it can expand and contract, allowing for versatile placements in various crack sizes. Cams with a wider range provide climbers with more options, making them suitable for different types of rock formations.
- Strength-to-Weight Ratio: This ratio evaluates how strong a cam is relative to its weight, which is crucial for climbers who need to minimize gear load. Cams with a high strength-to-weight ratio allow climbers to carry less gear without compromising safety.
- Cam Angle: The angle of the cam lobes affects how well the cam grips and holds in a crack. A steeper cam angle may provide better holding power in particular placements, while a shallower angle can be easier to place in certain types of rock.
- Ease of Use: This refers to how intuitive it is to place and remove the cam while climbing. Cams that feature user-friendly designs, such as quick-trigger mechanisms or easy-to-grip lobes, facilitate smoother climbing experiences.
- Durability: Climbers look for cams that can withstand wear and tear over time, especially when frequently used in abrasive environments. Durable materials and robust designs ensure that the gear will last through many climbs without compromising safety.
- Price Point: The cost of a cam can influence a climber’s choice, with many looking for the best performance at a reasonable price. While some climbers may invest in high-end models, others may prioritize budget-friendly options that still provide reliable performance.