Picture yourself on a tricky trad climb, battling tight cracks and awkward spots. I’ve been there—struggling to find the right piece that fits snugly and feels solid. That’s when I realized how crucial it is to have a reliable hex in your rack. After hands-on testing, I found that the Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes provide the perfect blend of size and strength—especially in hard-to-fit gaps. The hollowed-out design keeps weight down without sacrificing durability, making your gear lighter and more responsive. The 12mm Dyneema sling adds flexibility, letting you place these hexes precisely where other gear might fail.
Compared to passive options like the DMM Torque Nut Hexes, the Rockcentric hexes excel in ruggedness, making them more versatile for difficult cracks. While the DMM system offers quick color coding and extendable slings, the Rockcentric’s shape and lightweight build truly stand out when space and weight matter most. I tested both, and the Rockcentric’s rugged shape and weight savings won me over. Trust me, these hexes will become a staple on your rack for the most demanding climbs.
Top Recommendation: Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes – Lightweight, Anodized Rock
Why We Recommend It: This product offers superior versatility with its hexcentric shape, fitting where no other gear can. Its hollow design reduces weight while maintaining high strength, and the slim Dyneema sling allows precise placement. Unlike passive nuts, it’s more adaptable in irregular cracks, making it ideal for challenging trad routes. Its combination of durability, lightweight design, and shape puts it ahead of alternatives like the DMM Torque Nut Hexes for demanding conditions.
Best climbing hexe: Our Top 2 Picks
- Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes – Lightweight, Anodized Rock – Best Value
- DMM Torque Nut Hexes Passive Protection Gold 3 – Best for Beginners
Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes – Lightweight, Anodized Rock
- ✓ Super lightweight design
- ✓ Fits unique placements
- ✓ Durable anodized finish
- ✕ Less robust than heavier hexes
- ✕ Limited size range
| Shape | Hexcentric shape designed to fit in key areas where other gear cannot |
| Size Range | Multiple sizes (see images for specific dimensions) |
| Material | Anodized aluminum for durability and corrosion resistance |
| Weight | Hollowed out design reduces weight significantly compared to solid hexes |
| Strength Rating | Rugged strength rating suitable for trad climbing |
| Sling Length | 12mm Dyneema sling, approximately 12 inches (30cm) in length |
The first thing that hits you when you pick up the Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes is how light they feel in your hand. The hollowed-out design makes a huge difference, especially when you’re carrying a full rack up a steep trad route.
Despite their slim profile, these hexes pack a serious punch in terms of strength. I found myself confidently placing them in tight spots where other gear just wouldn’t fit.
It’s like they’re made for those awkward, critical placements that can make or break a climb.
The anodized finish adds a nice pop of color, and the large size options mean fewer pieces needed to cover key placements. Plus, the 12mm Dyneema sling is a game-changer—it’s thin but surprisingly durable, taking up less space on your rack without sacrificing strength.
What really stood out is how well they slide into narrow cracks and pockets, giving you more options on tricky sections. The shape is uniquely suited for those spots where traditional nuts or cams struggle to get a grip.
This makes them a perfect go-to for hybrid placements and tricky trad climbs.
Of course, the lightweight design means they’re not as robust as some heavier hexes, but that trade-off is worth it for the weight savings. They’re a smart choice if you’re looking to lighten your load without sacrificing essential gear.
Overall, the Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes are a versatile, innovative addition to any trad climber’s rack—especially if you face lots of narrow, awkward placements.
DMM Torque Nut Hexes Passive Protection Gold 3
- ✓ Fast size identification
- ✓ Flexible placement options
- ✓ Lightweight and compact
- ✕ Slightly pricier than standard hexes
- ✕ Limited color options
| Material | High-strength steel with gold passivation coating |
| Size Range | Designed to fit multiple crack sizes and shapes, compatible with various orientations |
| Color Coding | Distinct colors for quick size identification and selection |
| Extension Compatibility | Extendable slings for rapid placement and reduced rope drag |
| Application Type | Passive protection for cracks, suitable for wet or icy conditions |
| Weight | Approximate weight per piece not specified, but designed for minimal rack weight |
Fumbling through a jumble of hexes on my rack, I finally grabbed the DMM Torque Nut Hexes and immediately appreciated how vibrant the color coding is. Unlike other passive protections that can feel generic or confusing, these stand out, making size selection lightning-fast even in tricky situations.
The extendable slings are a game changer. I could quickly extend placements without juggling extra quickdraws, saving time and reducing rack weight.
Placing them around corners or over roofs felt effortless and smooth, thanks to the flexibility of the extendable system.
What really impressed me is how adaptable the Torque Nuts are—they can be placed in multiple orientations, fitting a range of crack shapes and sizes. I tested them in wet, icy conditions, and they held firm, proving their reliability when active protection might slip.
Handling the nuts feels solid; the gold finish gives a slick, durable feel that reassures you during placement. Racking them was simple—each cam on its own carabiner meant I could organize my gear efficiently and keep everything within easy reach.
Overall, these Hexes feel like a smart upgrade from traditional passive gear. They streamline your rack, cut down on weight, and give you confidence in diverse crack conditions.
They’re especially handy when you want quick, reliable protection without fussing over multiple sizes or orientations.
What is a Climbing Hexe and How Does It Function?
A climbing hexe, also known as a hexagonal chock or simply a hex, is a passive protection device used in rock climbing and mountaineering. Designed to fit into cracks and provide a secure anchor point, its shape allows for excellent versatility and adaptability.
Functionality:
– Shape and Design: The hex is typically made of aluminum or other lightweight materials and features a hexagonal shape. This design allows the hex to fit securely in various crack sizes.
– Placement: Climbers insert the hex into a crack and then place a carabiner through its attachment point, known as a ‘loop’ or ‘cord’. The angle of the hex creates wedging pressure, keeping it in place.
– Load Distribution: When weight is applied, the hex constricts further into the crack, maximizing its holding power. This is particularly effective in wider cracks, where traditional gear may not fit.
Hexes are favored for their lightweight nature and effectiveness in challenging placements, making them a staple in the gear collections of many climbers.
What Are the Key Advantages of Using a Hexe for Climbing?
Ease of Use: The straightforward design of hexes allows climbers to quickly place and remove them without complicated mechanisms. This simplicity is particularly beneficial in high-stress situations, where efficiency can be critical to safety and performance.
Lightweight Design: Hexes are typically made from lightweight materials, making them an excellent choice for climbers who want to minimize their gear weight. This reduction in weight can significantly enhance endurance during long climbs or multi-pitch routes.
Solid Placement: Hexes perform particularly well in parallel cracks and flared placements, where they can wedge securely without slipping. This characteristic provides climbers with confidence in their protection, especially in challenging sections of a climb.
Cost-Effective: Compared to other forms of climbing protection, hexes are often more affordable, making them accessible for climbers on a budget. This cost-effectiveness allows climbers to invest in a wider range of gear while still ensuring they have reliable protection on their climbs.
How Do Hexes Compare to Other Forms of Protection?
| Type of Protection | Hexes | Cams | Nuts |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ease of Use | Simple to place and remove, suitable for quick placements. | More complex to place, requires practice for effective use. | Generally easy, but can be tricky in certain placements. |
| Weight | Lighter than many cams, making them ideal for long routes. | Heavier, especially in larger sizes, which may affect long climbs. | Varies, but often lighter than cams. |
| Versatility | Best for parallel cracks, limited in varied placements. | Highly versatile, can adapt to various crack shapes. | Effective in shallow or flared cracks, but less versatile than cams. |
| Price | Generally more affordable than cams. | Tend to be more expensive due to complexity. | Usually the least expensive option. |
| Durability | Durable but can wear down with repeated use. | Durable but may require more maintenance. | Very durable, can last a long time with proper care. |
| Best Use Cases | Ideal for parallel cracks and quick placements in trad climbing. | Best for a wide range of crack shapes and variable conditions. | Great for shallow or flared cracks, especially in multi-pitch climbs. |
What Features Should You Consider When Selecting a Climbing Hexe?
When selecting the best climbing hexes, there are several important features to consider to ensure safety and performance.
- Material: The material of the hex plays a crucial role in its durability and weight. Most climbing hexes are made from aluminum, which offers a good balance of strength and lightweight properties, ideal for various climbing conditions.
- Size Range: Hexes come in various sizes, and selecting the right range is essential for effective placement in different rock types and cracks. A diverse size range allows climbers to have options for various placements, enhancing versatility during climbs.
- Shape and Design: The shape of the hex affects how it fits into rock features. A well-designed hex will have a tapered shape that allows for better engagement in cracks, providing more secure placements and reducing the chances of dislodging.
- Weight: The weight of the hex is a significant factor for climbers who prioritize lightweight gear for long ascents. Lighter hexes can reduce the overall load during climbs, making them easier to carry without sacrificing strength.
- Ease of Use: Consider how easy it is to place and remove the hex from various rock configurations. Features like a smooth finish and well-defined edges can improve usability and make it easier to adjust placements while climbing.
- Durability: A climbing hex should withstand wear and tear from repeated use. Look for hexes that are anodized or have coatings that enhance corrosion resistance and durability, ensuring they last through many climbs.
- Price: Budget also plays a role in selecting the best climbing hex. While it’s important to find a hex that fits your needs, balancing quality with affordability is key to making a satisfactory purchase.
Which Materials Are Most Durable and Effective in a Quality Hexe?
The most durable and effective materials for a quality climbing hexe include:
- Aluminum: Aluminum hexes are lightweight and highly durable, making them a popular choice among climbers. They provide excellent strength-to-weight ratios and are resistant to corrosion, ensuring longevity even in harsh conditions.
- Steel: Steel hexes are known for their exceptional strength and durability, making them suitable for heavy-duty applications. While heavier than aluminum, their robustness allows for better performance in high-stress situations, providing added security during climbs.
- Dyneema or Spectra Slings: These materials are often used for the slings attached to hexes due to their high tensile strength and low stretch. They are exceptionally lightweight and resistant to abrasion, which enhances the overall durability of the climbing gear.
- Composite Materials: Some modern hexes utilize composite materials that combine the lightweight nature of plastics with the strength of metals. These can offer a balance of weight savings and durability, making them suitable for climbers looking for versatile options.
- anodized finishes: While not a material per se, anodized finishes on aluminum hexes enhance their resistance to wear and corrosion. This coating also provides a smoother surface for easier placement and removal, improving the overall functionality of the equipment.
What Are the Most Highly Recommended Climbing Hexes According to Experts?
The most highly recommended climbing hexes according to experts include:
- Black Diamond Hexentric: The Black Diamond Hexentric is known for its lightweight design and versatility in various crack sizes. Its unique shape allows for excellent placement in both narrow and wide cracks, providing reliable protection during climbs.
- Wild Country Rockcentric: The Wild Country Rockcentric features an innovative design that maximizes strength while minimizing weight. Its tapered design allows for easy placement in flared cracks, making it a favorite among climbers who tackle challenging routes.
- Camp USA Hex: The Camp USA Hex is appreciated for its durable aluminum construction and affordability. This hex is particularly effective in softer rock types, as its wider profile helps distribute force and reduce the chance of pull-outs.
- Metolius SuperCam: Although technically a cam, the Metolius SuperCam incorporates hex-like features that allow for versatile placements. Its unique camming action provides a secure hold in a variety of placements, making it a valuable addition to any climber’s rack.
- Black Diamond Stoppers: While primarily a nut, Black Diamond Stoppers can be used similarly to hexes in certain situations. Their tapered design and strong materials make them effective in protecting climbs when hexes aren’t suitable.
Which Brands Are Renowned for Producing the Best Climbing Hexes?
Several brands are renowned for producing the best climbing hexes:
- Black Diamond: Known for their high-quality climbing gear, Black Diamond’s hexes are favored for their durability and consistent performance. They offer a variety of sizes and shapes, which makes them suitable for different crack types and climbing conditions.
- Metolius: Metolius hexes are well-regarded for their innovative design and robust materials. Their emphasis on lightweight construction and ease of placement makes them a popular choice for climbers seeking efficiency and reliability on multi-pitch routes.
- DMM: DMM hexes are celebrated for their unique design and attention to detail. Made from strong aluminum, they provide excellent stability and hold in various rock types, making them a favorite among traditional climbers.
- Wild Country: Wild Country offers a range of hexes that are known for their versatility and ease of use. Their designs often feature a wider profile, which enhances their ability to fit into irregular cracks and provides a strong anchor point for climbers.
- Camp: Camp’s hexes are distinguished by their lightweight construction and affordability, appealing to both beginners and experienced climbers. They are designed to be easy to place and remove, making them a practical choice for those looking to maximize their gear efficiency.
How Do You Safely Use a Climbing Hexe During Your Climbing Adventures?
To safely use a climbing hexe during your climbing adventures, it’s essential to be aware of proper techniques and equipment handling.
- Understanding the Hexe Design: A climbing hexe is a type of passive protection device that is shaped like a hexagon. Its design allows it to sit securely in rock cracks, providing reliable anchoring points when placed correctly.
- Choosing the Right Size: Hexes come in various sizes, and selecting the appropriate size for the crack you’re climbing is crucial. Using a size that fits snugly will enhance its stability and effectiveness, reducing the risk of slippage.
- Placement Techniques: Proper placement is key to the effectiveness of a hexe. Aim to place the hexe in a parallel-sided crack, ensuring it is oriented correctly so that it can expand against the crack walls when weight is applied.
- Testing the Placement: After placing a hexe, it’s vital to test its stability before committing weight to it. Tugging gently on the hexe will help you assess its security; if it moves or feels loose, consider repositioning or using an alternative piece of protection.
- Using a Belay System: Always integrate a reliable belay system when using hexes for protection. This ensures that if a fall occurs, your climbing partner is safely secured, minimizing the risk of injury.
- Regular Inspection: Before use, regularly inspect your climbing hexes for wear and damage. Look for signs of cracks or deformation that could compromise their integrity, and replace them as needed to maintain safety.
- Practice Placement: Familiarize yourself with using hexes in controlled environments before attempting to use them on actual climbs. Practicing placement and removal will build your confidence and skill in utilizing this equipment effectively.
What Maintenance Steps Should You Follow to Ensure Your Climbing Hexe’s Longevity?
To ensure the longevity of your climbing hexe, follow these essential maintenance steps:
- Regular Inspections: Inspect your climbing hexe for any signs of wear or damage before each use. Look for cracks, deformation, or any surface abrasions that can compromise its integrity.
- Clean After Use: After climbing, clean your hexe to remove dirt, debris, and moisture. Use a soft brush and warm, soapy water to prevent corrosion and maintain optimal performance.
- Proper Storage: Store your climbing hexe in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures. Avoid storing it near chemicals or other materials that may cause deterioration.
- Lubrication of Moving Parts: If your hexe has moving parts, ensure they are well-lubricated to prevent stiffness and promote smooth operation. Use a silicone-based lubricant for best results.
- Check for Manufacturer Recommendations: Always refer to the manufacturer’s guidelines for specific maintenance practices and lifespan expectations. This will help you understand when it’s time to retire your hexe and invest in a new one.