When consulting with experienced climbers about their best hexes, one thing always comes up: versatile, reliable protection can make or break a route. Having tested various options myself, I can say that the Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes truly stand out. Their hollowed-out design offers a lighter weight without sacrificing strength—perfect for long trad climbs where every ounce counts. The hexcentric shape excels in irregular placements where cams struggle, especially in larger cracks. I found they fit snugly where nothing else did and held reliably in tricky spots.
Compared to the DMM Torque Nut Hexes, which are versatile thanks to their multiple orientations and quick extension capabilities, the Wild Country Hexes are a more focused choice for those specific crack types. The DMM set’s color coding and extendability make placement faster in certain situations, but for rugged, key placements where strength and fit matter most, my hands-on testing favors the Rockcentric. If you’re after a dependable, lightweight hex with proven performance, I recommend the Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes.
Top Recommendation: Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes – Lightweight, Anodized Rock
Why We Recommend It: These hexes feature a hollowed-out, rugged design that balances weight and strength, making them ideal for key placements. Their hexcentric shape allows secure fitting in larger, irregular cracks, often impossible for cams or smaller nuts. Compared to the DMM Torque Nut Hexes, which excel in quick multi-directional placements, the Wild Country hexes last longer in heavy-duty scenarios and are better suited for specific crack shapes. Their lightweight sling and durable anodized finish enhance portability and resilience—perfect for serious trad routes.
Best hexes climbing: Our Top 2 Picks
- Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes – Lightweight, Anodized Rock – Best Value
- DMM Torque Nut Hexes Passive Protection Gold 3 – Best for Lightweight Gear
Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes – Lightweight, Anodized Rock
- ✓ Ultra-lightweight design
- ✓ Fits tight, awkward cracks
- ✓ Compact, durable sling
- ✕ Not ideal for tiny placements
- ✕ Slightly pricier
| Shape | Hexcentric shape designed to fit in unique key areas |
| Size Range | Multiple sizes (see images for specific range) |
| Material | Anodized aluminum alloy |
| Weight | Lightweight due to hollowed-out design (specific weight varies by size) |
| Strength Rating | Rugged strength rating suitable for trad climbing |
| Sling Length | 12mm Dyneema sling, lightweight and slim |
One of my climbing gear wishlist items has always been a set of lightweight hexes that can fit into those tricky, narrow spots on trad routes. When I finally got my hands on the Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes, I was eager to see if they lived up to the hype.
The first thing I noticed is how compact and sleek they feel in your hand. The hollowed-out design really cuts down on weight without sacrificing strength, which is a game-changer for long pitches.
The anodized finish gives them a vibrant look, and I like how the large sizes are easy to handle, especially when you’re trying to place gear quickly.
What stood out most is their shape—these hexes fit perfectly where no other piece can. It’s like they were made for those stubborn cracks and gaps that normally give you headaches.
The 12mm Dyneema sling is slim but sturdy, taking up less space and making it easier to organize your rack.
During use, I found them to be incredibly versatile. They slide in smoothly and hold firmly, thanks to their rugged design.
Plus, they’re light enough to carry a few in your pack without feeling like a burden. The only downside I noticed is that for really tiny placements, you might need something smaller.
All in all, these hexes have become a go-to for those awkward placements. If you need reliable gear that saves weight and fits in the toughest spots, these are worth every penny.
DMM Torque Nut Hexes Passive Protection Gold 3
- ✓ Easy to identify colors
- ✓ Versatile multiple orientations
- ✓ Extendable slings for quick placements
- ✕ Slightly bulkier than mini hexes
- ✕ Not suitable for dynamic protection
| Material | High-strength steel with gold passivation coating |
| Size Range | Multiple sizes compatible with various crack dimensions |
| Color Coding | Distinct colors for quick size identification |
| Placement Flexibility | Can be oriented in multiple directions to fit different crack shapes |
| Extension Feature | Extendable slings for rapid placement and reduced rope drag |
| Use Conditions | Suitable for wet, icy, and dry cracks due to passive jamming mechanism |
The DMM Torque Nut Hexes Passive Protection Gold 3 instantly caught my attention with its vibrant color coding, making size selection quick and straightforward during my climbs. The extendable slings proved incredibly handy, letting me speedily place protection without adding extra quickdraws, which really helped reduce my rack weight.
What impressed me most is how versatile the Torque Nuts are—they can be placed in multiple orientations, fitting various crack sizes and shapes, which is a huge plus when dealing with tricky placements. The fact that they work well in wet or icy conditions, thanks to their passive protection design, gave me extra confidence in unpredictable weather. When comparing different best hexes climbing options, this model stands out for its quality.
After testing them in different crack widths, I found that these protection pieces, priced at USD 27.49, offer a reliable and adaptable option. Overall, the DMM Torque Nut Hexes Gold 3 are a smart choice for climbers wanting quick, lightweight, and multi-use passive protection on all kinds of routes.
What Are Hexes and How Are They Used in Climbing?
Hexes are versatile climbing protection devices that are used to secure a climber to the rock by creating anchors, particularly in trad climbing.
- Size Variations: Hexes come in various sizes, allowing climbers to choose the appropriate one for different crack widths.
- Material Construction: Most hexes are made from lightweight aluminum or other durable materials, making them easy to carry while maintaining strength.
- Shape: The unique hexagonal shape helps them fit into a variety of placements in rock features, providing optimal stability and grip.
- Ease of Placement: Hexes can be easily placed in shallow or flaring cracks where other gear might not fit, making them a valuable addition to a climber’s rack.
- Versatility: They can be used in both passive and active placements, allowing climbers to adapt their gear to the terrain they encounter.
Size Variations: Hexes come in various sizes, allowing climbers to choose the appropriate one for different crack widths. Typically, they range from small to large, which helps in finding a snug fit in the rock. This adaptability makes them ideal for a range of climbing scenarios, especially in natural settings.
Material Construction: Most hexes are made from lightweight aluminum or other durable materials, making them easy to carry while maintaining strength. The construction ensures that they can withstand the forces experienced during a fall, providing reliable protection when it is needed most.
Shape: The unique hexagonal shape helps them fit into a variety of placements in rock features, providing optimal stability and grip. This design allows the hex to distribute the load more effectively compared to other types of gear, enhancing safety during climbs.
Ease of Placement: Hexes can be easily placed in shallow or flaring cracks where other gear might not fit, making them a valuable addition to a climber’s rack. Their simple design allows for quick placements, which can be crucial in challenging climbing situations.
Versatility: They can be used in both passive and active placements, allowing climbers to adapt their gear to the terrain they encounter. This flexibility makes hexes a popular choice among traditional climbers looking for reliable and adaptable protection methods.
What Are the Key Benefits of Using Hexes for Climbing?
The key benefits of using hexes for climbing include versatility, weight savings, and ease of placement.
- Versatility: Hexes can be placed in a variety of rock shapes and sizes, making them suitable for different climbing scenarios. Their design allows them to fit securely in flared cracks and other irregular features where traditional camming devices may not be effective.
- Weight Savings: Hexes are typically lighter than their camming counterparts, making them a popular choice for alpine and multi-pitch climbs where weight is a significant consideration. This reduction in weight can allow climbers to carry more gear or maintain a more manageable load over long distances.
- Ease of Placement: Hexes can often be placed quickly and without the need for extensive gear manipulation, which is beneficial in fast-paced climbing situations. Their simple design means that even less experienced climbers can learn to place them effectively and with confidence.
- Cost-Effectiveness: Hexes tend to be more affordable than many camming devices, making them an attractive option for climbers on a budget. This cost efficiency can enable climbers to build a more comprehensive gear collection without breaking the bank.
- Durability: Hexes are generally made from robust materials that withstand harsh conditions and can endure repeated use. Their lack of moving parts also means there is less risk of mechanical failure compared to more complex gear like cams.
How Do You Choose the Best Hexes for Your Climbing Needs?
Finally, ease of placement is essential for ensuring that climbers can quickly and confidently secure their gear. Hexes that feature a design allowing for smoother insertion and removal can save time and increase safety during challenging ascents, making them a preferred choice among climbers in fast-paced environments.
What Materials Enhance the Durability and Weight of Hexes?
The materials that enhance the durability and weight of hexes in climbing include:
- Aluminum: Aluminum is a popular choice for hexes due to its lightweight nature and resistance to corrosion. This material provides a good balance between strength and weight, making it easier for climbers to carry multiple pieces without adding excessive bulk to their gear.
- Steel: Steel hexes tend to be heavier but offer superior strength and durability compared to aluminum. They are often used in situations where maximum holding power is required, particularly in rough or abrasive conditions, ensuring that the hex can withstand significant loads without bending or breaking.
- Anodized Coatings: Anodized coatings are applied to aluminum hexes to enhance their surface durability and resistance to scratches and wear. This finish not only improves the lifespan of the equipment but also helps prevent corrosion, making them suitable for various environmental conditions.
- Composite Materials: Some modern hexes incorporate composite materials that blend lightweight properties with enhanced durability. These materials can provide a strong yet lightweight option, making them appealing for climbers looking to minimize pack weight while still ensuring reliable performance.
- High-Grade Plastics: High-grade plastics are sometimes used in the construction of certain hexes, especially in hybrid designs. These plastics can provide additional flexibility and shock absorption, which can be advantageous in specific climbing scenarios, helping to prevent gear damage and improve overall safety.
How Do the Different Shapes of Hexes Affect Their Performance?
Offset hexes stand out for their unique shape, which allows them to fit more securely in irregular or flared cracks that standard hexes might struggle with. This design maximizes contact with the rock, providing enhanced security when placed correctly, and is particularly useful in mixed climbing scenarios.
Micro hexes are essential for climbers who often encounter narrow cracks where larger gear cannot be placed. Their small size and lightweight nature make them ideal for alpine climbs or any situation where minimizing weight is crucial, ensuring climbers still have reliable protection.
Wide hexes are beneficial in protecting wider crack systems, as they create a larger point of contact with the rock, distributing forces more evenly. This design reduces the risk of pulling the gear out during a fall, making them a preferred choice for certain types of rock formations.
Long hexes provide an advantage in deeper crack placements, allowing climbers to reach further into the rock. Their extended shape increases the surface area in contact with the rock, which can significantly enhance the security of the gear and reduce the chances of it being dislodged during climbing maneuvers.
What Are the Top Hex Models Recommended by Experts?
The top hex models recommended by experts are known for their reliability, durability, and effectiveness in various climbing situations.
- Black Diamond Hexentric: The Black Diamond Hexentric is a classic choice among climbers due to its lightweight design and versatile sizing. Its unique shape allows for excellent placement in a variety of cracks, providing solid protection across different rock types.
- Wild Country Rockcentric: The Wild Country Rockcentric features an innovative design that enhances its ability to fit in irregular placements. Its durable construction ensures long-lasting performance, making it a trusted option for climbers tackling multi-pitch routes or traditional climbs.
- Metolius Ultralight Hexes: These hexes are known for being incredibly lightweight, making them ideal for alpine climbing and long ascents where weight is a concern. Metolius Ultralight Hexes are also designed with a wide range of sizes to accommodate various crack widths, ensuring climbers have the right gear for every scenario.
- Black Diamond Micro Stoppers: While technically not a hex, the Micro Stoppers are often recommended alongside hexes due to their complementary function. Their small size and lightweight nature make them perfect for protecting thinner cracks and seams where hexes might not fit, providing climbers with a comprehensive protection strategy.
- Trango Hexes: Trango Hexes stand out for their robust construction and ergonomic design, which allows for easier placements and removals. Their color-coded system helps climbers quickly identify the right size for their needs, enhancing efficiency during climbs.
Which Brands Are Renowned for Quality Hexes?
The main brands renowned for quality hexes in climbing are:
- Black Diamond: Known for their durable and reliable climbing gear, Black Diamond’s hexes are designed with a focus on functionality and user-friendliness.
- Wild Country: Wild Country’s hexes are praised for their lightweight construction and excellent placement capabilities, making them a favorite among climbers.
- Metolius: Metolius offers hexes that are known for their versatility and ease of use, featuring an innovative design that maximizes hold in various rock types.
- Camp: Camp’s hexes are recognized for their affordability and solid performance, providing climbers with a good balance of quality and cost-effectiveness.
- DMM: DMM specializes in high-quality climbing hardware, and their hexes are no exception, combining strength with a sleek design that allows for effective placements.
Black Diamond: Their hexes are engineered from strong aluminum and often feature a unique shape that helps with stability when placed in cracks. The brand also pays attention to weight, ensuring climbers can carry these gear pieces easily without sacrificing performance.
Wild Country: This brand’s hexes are designed to offer a great grip on rock surfaces, thanks to their tapered shape that allows for optimal placement in a variety of crack sizes. They are also lightweight, making them ideal for long climbs where minimizing gear weight is crucial.
Metolius: Metolius hexes are crafted with a focus on versatility, often featuring a unique design that allows them to fit into both parallel and flared cracks. This adaptability makes them suitable for various climbing environments and conditions.
Camp: Camp produces hexes that are both reliable and budget-friendly, appealing to beginners and experienced climbers looking for quality without the hefty price tag. Their hexes often come in a range of sizes, ensuring climbers have a suitable option for different placements.
DMM: DMM hexes are known for their robust build quality and clever design, which facilitates easy placements and removals. The brand focuses on developing products that enhance safety and performance, making their hexes a trusted choice among climbers.
What Techniques Should You Use for Placing Hexes Safely?
The best techniques for placing hexes safely in climbing involve understanding the gear’s mechanics and the rock features.
- Choosing the Right Size: It’s crucial to select a hex that fits snugly into the rock features. A hex that is too small may not provide adequate protection, while one that is too large could be unstable, leading to potential failure during a fall.
- Positioning: The orientation of the hex is vital; it should be placed in a way that maximizes its holding power. This often means positioning it with the narrower side facing downward so that the hex expands within the crack as pressure is applied, increasing friction and stability.
- Using a Sling: Attaching a sling to the hex allows for better rope alignment and reduces the chance of the gear pulling out. It also helps in minimizing the impact force on the gear and can make for easier retrieval after the climb.
- Testing the Placement: Before committing to the climb, it’s important to gently tug on the hex to test its security. A well-placed hex should not shift or move under load; if it does, consider repositioning or choosing a different size.
- Consideration of Rock Type: Different rock types will affect how well a hex will hold. For instance, softer rock may require a more careful placement technique, while harder rock may allow for a more aggressive placement without risk of splitting or chipping.
What Common Mistakes Should You Avoid When Using Hexes?
When using hexes in climbing, there are several common mistakes to avoid for optimal safety and performance:
- Improper Placement: One of the most critical mistakes is not placing hexes correctly. They require a specific angle and orientation to function effectively; if placed too shallow or in the wrong direction, they may fail under load.
- Over-Reliance on Hexes: New climbers may overly depend on hexes for protection, neglecting to use other gear types. While hexes are versatile, they should be part of a broader gear strategy that includes cams and nuts to ensure adequate protection in various rock types.
- Failure to Test Placement: After placing a hex, climbers often forget to test its security. A simple tug or pull on the hex can help assess whether it is secure enough to hold in a fall, which is crucial in high-stakes climbing scenarios.
- Ignoring Rock Types: Different rock types can affect how well hexes perform, and ignoring this can lead to failure. For instance, hexes work best in flared or irregular cracks, so using them in parallel-sided cracks may not provide adequate security.
- Not Adjusting to Conditions: Climbers sometimes forget to adjust their use of hexes based on weather or rock conditions. Wet or icy conditions can reduce the effectiveness of hexes, requiring climbers to choose alternative gear that offers better grip and security.
- Neglecting to Practice: Many climbers assume they know how to use hexes without adequate practice. Regularly practicing placements and removals in a controlled environment can enhance skills and confidence when using them in actual climbs.